When you tell someone you need a reptile sitter, you can see the hesitation. People who are perfectly comfortable with dogs and cats suddenly look uncertain. They've never handled a bearded dragon. They don't know what UVB means. They definitely don't know what to do with a live cricket.

And that's exactly why reptile owners need to provide the most detailed sitter instructions of any pet. With a dog, a well-meaning sitter who wings it will probably get through the weekend fine. With a reptile, winging it can mean a burned lizard, a sick snake, or a gecko that hasn't eaten because the temperature dropped five degrees below the optimal range.

Reptile care isn't hard — but it is precise. And the sitter who understands the precision will do a great job.

Temperature: The Non-Negotiable

Reptiles are ectotherms — they can't regulate their own body temperature. The enclosure does it for them. If the temperature is wrong, everything else goes wrong: digestion stalls, immune systems weaken, and behavior changes.

Your sitter needs to know:

The temperature gradient. Most reptile enclosures have a warm side and a cool side. Your sitter needs to know the target temperature for each. For example:

• Bearded dragon: basking spot 100–110°F, cool side 80–85°F
• Leopard gecko: warm side 88–92°F, cool side 75–80°F
• Ball python: warm side 88–92°F, cool side 76–80°F
• Corn snake: warm side 85–88°F, cool side 72–78°F

How to check. Show your sitter where the thermometers are (digital probe thermometers are most accurate). If you use a thermostat — and you should — explain how to read it and what to do if the temperature drifts.

What to do if it's wrong. If the basking spot is too cool, is there a backup bulb? If the heat mat malfunctions, what's the contingency? Leave a spare bulb, the wattage, and instructions on how to change it.

Night temperatures. Many reptiles need a temperature drop at night that mimics their natural environment. Tell your sitter whether to turn off the heat lamp, use a ceramic heat emitter (which produces heat without light), or leave the setup as-is.

Tip: A thermostat with a probe controls the temperature automatically, which is far more reliable than expecting a sitter to manually adjust heat lamps. If you don't have one, consider getting one before your trip.

UVB Lighting

Diurnal reptiles (those active during the day) need UVB light to synthesize vitamin D3, which is essential for calcium absorption. Without it, they develop metabolic bone disease — a painful, debilitating, and often fatal condition.

Your sitter needs to know:

Which light is the UVB. If your setup has multiple lights (basking lamp, UVB tube, ambient light), label them. "Long tube on top = UVB. Round bulb on left = basking. Don't mix them up."

The schedule. Most diurnal reptiles need 10–12 hours of UVB per day. Tell your sitter what time to turn it on and off — or set it on a timer (strongly recommended).

Don't stare at it. UVB lights are harmful to human eyes with prolonged direct exposure. Your sitter should avoid looking directly at the bulb.

Nocturnal reptiles. Leopard geckos, crested geckos, and most snakes don't need UVB (though some benefit from low levels). If your reptile doesn't need UVB, tell the sitter so they don't add a light "just in case."

When to replace. UVB bulbs lose effectiveness over time (usually every 6–12 months) even though they still produce visible light. If your bulb is due for replacement during the sitting period, swap it before you leave.

Humidity

Some reptiles need specific humidity levels, and getting this wrong can cause shedding problems, respiratory infections, or dehydration.

Tropical species (crested geckos, chameleons, ball pythons): Often need 50–80% humidity. Your sitter may need to mist the enclosure, maintain a humid hide, or top off a fogger/mister.

Arid species (bearded dragons, leopard geckos): Need lower humidity (20–40%). A water bowl in the enclosure usually provides enough ambient moisture. Too much humidity in an arid enclosure causes respiratory issues.

Tell your sitter:

• Target humidity range
• Where the hygrometer is (the instrument that measures humidity)
• How to raise humidity (misting, wet towel over screen, topping off fogger)
• How to lower humidity (improve ventilation, reduce misting, move water bowl)
• How often to mist (if applicable) and with what (dechlorinated water, tap water, distilled)

Feeding

Reptile feeding schedules vary wildly by species, age, and individual — and the feeding method is often the part that makes sitters most uncomfortable.

Insectivores (bearded dragons, leopard geckos, chameleons)

Types of feeder insects. Specify exactly what you feed: crickets, dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae, mealworms, waxworms (treats only — high fat). Your sitter may not know the difference.

Gut-loading and dusting. If you gut-load feeder insects (feeding them nutritious food before offering them to the reptile), explain the process. More importantly, explain calcium and vitamin dusting: "Coat the crickets in calcium powder before every feeding. Use the calcium with D3 twice a week." Leave the supplement containers labeled and next to the feeder insect container.

How many and how often. "5–7 appropriately sized crickets every other day" is precise. "Some bugs when he seems hungry" is not. Include the size guideline — feeder insects should be no larger than the space between the reptile's eyes.

Live vs. pre-killed. Some reptiles only eat live prey. If your sitter is uncomfortable with live insects, this needs to be discussed before the trip — not when they're holding a container of crickets for the first time.

Where to buy more. If feeders might run out during your trip, tell the sitter where to buy them: a specific pet store, an online supplier (order in advance), or a bait shop.

Herbivores and Omnivores (adult bearded dragons, iguanas, tortoises)

Exact vegetables and greens. Collard greens, butternut squash, bell peppers — list the specific foods, how to prepare them (chopped, shredded, raw), and how much.

Foods to avoid. Iceberg lettuce (no nutritional value), spinach (binds calcium), avocado (toxic), citrus (too acidic for most reptiles). Write these out — your sitter may default to "salad" if you don't specify.

Supplementation. Calcium powder on vegetables, multivitamin schedule — same dusting instructions as with insects.

Snakes

Feeding frequency. Most snakes eat once every 1–2 weeks (adults) or every 5–7 days (juveniles). If the feeding day falls during the sitting period, leave a frozen/thawed prey item with thawing instructions.

Thawing process. "Place the frozen mouse in a plastic bag. Submerge in warm (not hot) water for 30–45 minutes. Offer with tongs — never by hand. If the snake doesn't eat within 20 minutes, remove the prey and try again in a few days."

Post-feeding rules. Don't handle the snake for 48 hours after feeding. The sitter needs to know this — handling too soon can cause regurgitation.

Handling

Some sitters will want to handle the reptile. Others will want to avoid it entirely. Give clear guidance either way.

If handling is appropriate:

• How to pick up the reptile safely (support the body, don't grab the tail)
• How long handling sessions should last (10–15 minutes for most species)
• When NOT to handle (after feeding, during shedding, if the reptile is showing stress signals)
• Wash hands before and after handling (reptiles can carry salmonella)

If handling should be avoided:

• Say so clearly. "Please don't handle the snake — he's in a feeding cycle and handling will stress him out" is a valid instruction.

Stress signals. Dark coloring (bearded dragons turn their beard black), hissing, puffing up, tail whipping, rapid breathing, glass surfing (running along the enclosure walls). If the sitter sees these, leave the reptile alone.

Shedding

Your reptile might be in a shedding cycle during the sitting period. Your sitter should know what to expect.

Signs of upcoming shed:

• Dull, milky, or cloudy skin
• Cloudy eyes (especially in snakes — called "being in blue")
• Reduced appetite (normal — don't force feed)
• Increased hiding

What the sitter should do:

• Don't peel off shed skin — let it come off naturally
• Provide a humid hide (a container with damp moss) if your reptile uses one
• Increase misting for species that benefit from extra humidity during shedding
• Check for retained shed after the process is complete — stuck shed on toes or tail tips can cut off circulation. If retained shed is found, soak the area in lukewarm water and gently work it off, or call the vet.

Signs of Illness

Reptiles are stoic. A sick reptile often looks normal until things are serious. Your sitter should watch for:

• Not eating for longer than the normal fasting period (context-dependent — a snake that hasn't eaten in two weeks might be normal; a bearded dragon that hasn't eaten in two days is not)
• Labored breathing — mouth gaping, wheezing, mucus around the nostrils
• Lethargy beyond normal basking behavior — a reptile that won't move from one spot for 24+ hours
• Swollen joints or limbs — may indicate metabolic bone disease
• Discoloration — unusual dark patches, swelling, or redness
• Runny or discolored stool — especially if parasites are visible
• Abnormal discharge from eyes, nose, or mouth

Include the name and number of a reptile-experienced vet in your emergency contacts. Not all vets treat reptiles, and the sitter shouldn't have to figure this out during a crisis. For a complete guide to building your emergency contact list, see our pet emergency contact list.

The Reptile Sitter Cheat Sheet

Print this and leave it next to the enclosure:

Daily

• Check basking spot temperature: [target]°F
• Check cool side temperature: [target]°F
• Check humidity: [target]%
• Lights on at [time], lights off at [time]
• Fresh water
• Feed: [what, how much, how often]
• Dust with calcium: [schedule]
• Mist: [frequency, if applicable]
• Check for shed, signs of illness

Do Not

• Use non-stick cookware (PTFE fumes are lethal — same as with birds)
• Handle after feeding (wait 48 hours)
• Leave live feeder insects in the enclosure overnight (they can bite the reptile)
• Change the lighting or heating setup without calling me first

Emergency

• Reptile vet: [name, phone, address]
• Your phone: [number]
• Emergency animal hospital: [name, phone]

For the full species-neutral sitter checklist, see our complete pet sitter instructions checklist.

Reptile Care Is Too Detailed for a Text Thread

A bearded dragon's care instructions alone fill a full page: temperature gradients, UVB schedules, feeding rotation, calcium dusting, humidity, handling rules, shedding care, and emergency contacts. Try fitting all of that into a text conversation, and your sitter will be scrolling through messages at 8 AM trying to remember whether the basking spot should be 100°F or 110°F.

CareSheet puts everything in one shareable link. Your sitter opens it on their phone and has the full care guide — organized, scannable, and available offline. No app to download, no account to create. See a live example to get a feel for the format.

Your reptile's care is too important for scattered notes. Create your free Care Sheet and give your sitter the detailed, organized instructions your reptile deserves.